Focusing on the efforts of the Japan International Cooperation Agency to improve Phnom Penh's run-down sewage infrastructure, this paper offers an example of what a decentred anthropology of infrastructure might look like. The sewage infrastructure brings together a very diverse set of features, including pipes, road networks, economic considerations, demographic change, geography, climate change, flows of sludge and the lives of people in the city. Giving rise to significantly unpredictable and deeply material relations, the paper brings into view infrastructure as sites of immanent ontological experimentation; junctures where relations between society, technology and nature emerge in variable forms. The paper explores these relations by paying close attention to intersecting activity trails.